Back in September, fashion designers Jonathan Saunders, Christopher Raeburn and Richard Nicoll presented their spring/summer 2014 collections on the runways of London Fashion Week. Incorporating Cool Wool into each of their lines, wool has been presented as a trans-seasonal fibre, and with these collections now commercially available, wool’s rightful place has been cemented in every woman’s wardrobe this spring.
Cool Wool uses fine Australian Merino wool fibre and is transformed into lightweight fabrics and knitwear pieces through design inspiration, modern manufacturing and processing techniques. Merino wool is an ideal fibre for warmer climates and transitional seasons and so Cool Wool was introduced to identify and raise awareness that wool can be cool in the warmer seasons, or suitable for the daily transition from outdoor to indoor temperatures and environments.
For SS14 Christopher Raeburn, Jonathan Saunders and Richard Nicoll's collection included a selection of Cool Wool pieces, and British Vogue recently ran a 16-page feature in its February Catwalk Edition, showcasing Cool Wool pieces from all three designers. A reference guide for the warmer months, Vogue tells readers there’s only one way to feel fresh this spring, and that’s in Cool Wool.
Jonathan Saunders' collection was a celebration of interchangeable separates using both knitwear and wovens in unusual psychedelic colour combinations. With relaxed silhouettes and a sense of a carefree spirit, using cleverly constructed Cool Wool bombers with printed techniques and embellishments and soft, lightweight knitwear, this collection revives a 1970s style with a modern, sporty and elegant twist.
“Pieces in the collection using wool were screen printed with pigments so that they had a modern – almost more technical – feel to them,” Saunders explains. “The lightweight ability to be able to have a slouchy bomber jacket for a summer collection in wool makes something which looks aspirational and desirable but is still easy to wear.
Christopher Raeburn launched the season with a dramatic film titled ‘Mirage’, interpreting the use of Cool Wool in his collection and wool’s relevance with nature. He opened the catwalk with aqua hues softly flowing into smooth caramels, greys, blacks and pinks predominantly using Cool Wool fabrics and fine jersey knits.
"Cool Wool knitwear in the collection plays a universally appealing role in displaying the versatility of Merino wool." Richard Nicoll
Again with bombers and sporty urban attributes with a womenswear feel, Christopher Raeburn cleverly provided elegance and finesse as he worked with Cool Wool and hybrid fabric combinations. Illustrating the biodegradable aspect of wool - merged back into nature through his moving image created for the season – Raeburn was able to link natural fabrics with a very organic and experimental feel.
“I think what’s really cool is that I was able to use Cool Wool throughout the collection in dresses and hybrid pieces. I love the Cool Wool dress that we have in the black with the grey prints – that’s a real favourite for me.”
Richard Nicoll opted for Cool Wool knitwear, with a modern interpretation of classic striped sweaters, T-shirts, skirts and cardigans containing a Lurex sparkle that helps in making the sweaters have a young and playful aspect. By modernising how wool has historically been used, Nicoll reworked conservative classics to make them young, fun and relevant to now.
“The collection is a celebration of individualism and the knits are an important tool in grounding the looks and defining the character of the collection. Cool Wool knitwear in the collection plays a universally appealing role in displaying the versatility of Merino wool.
“I think Merino translates well from season to season and especially with an easy knit piece. I wanted to do something elegant but youthful and easy-going, fluid and probably something less traditional than what you might expect from Merino.