Two contrasting outfits, one in snow white with Merino fur representing a ‘human sheep’, the other black in its entirety presenting a modern take on formal eveningwear impressed an esteemed panel of judges at the 2014/15 International Woolmark Prize Europe regional final at the Shangri-La Hotel in Paris.
A judging panel comprising James Sleaford, Fashion Editor, GQ France; Sarah Andelman, Creative Director, Colette; Tim Blanks, Editor-at-Large, Style.com; and Véronique Nichanian, Director of the masculine world of Hermès, selected Denmark’s Asger Juel Larsen as the menswear winner. Augustin Teboul, representing Germany, was selected by Anita Barr, Fashion Buying Director, Harvey Nichols; Emmanuelle Alt, Editor-in-Chief, Vogue Paris; and Peter Copping, Artistic Director for Nina Ricci as the winner for the womenswear category. Fashion commentator Colin McDowell returned as mentor to each of the 20 nominees.
This year is the first time the International Woolmark Prize has introduced a separate menswear category, and competition amongst the ten emerging labels was always going to be fierce. But, according to menswear judge Ms Nichanian, the decision was unanimous.
“The decision was made as one voice,” explains the Hermès director of the masculine world.
“Asger’s presentation was very structured and well-articulated, his research on fabrics and textures was elaborate and accomplished.”
The Danish designer, whose eponymous label is known to test you and society and question the difference between strength and vulnerability, has a dark jungle of ideas that pushes menswear into psychotic sophistication. With placements at John Richmond and Burberry Prorsum, Asger had the perfect platform to establish his own name within the fashion industry.
With his signature elements of sportswear mixed with tailoring evident in his International Woolmark Prize submission piece, the menswear winner said, “I’m so relieved and happy to win the European regional award and to have the opportunity to be able to compete in London in January”.
For Augustin Teboul, the German womenswear label stuck to their brand DNA and ‘paint it black’ philosophy. The craftsmanship delivered by Odély Teboul and the construction of Annelie Augustin further pushes Austin Teboul into a space fusing ready-to-wear with haute couture.
Through the colour black, the womenswear winner’s unique textile designs impressed the judges with a black evening dress and coat.
“We have been touched by the mix of Annelie and Odély’s personalities,” explained Vogue Paris Editor-in-Chief Emmanuelle Alt.
“They give the wool an unexpected evening touch.”
Augustin Teboul will now have until March 2015 to develop a Merino wool capsule collection and present it at the global final for womenswear, to be held in Beijing.
“The importance of this prize and the experience to meet the jurors who are of such a high level provides a great opportunity for our label and we feel honoured to be part of this,” Augustin Teboul commented after the win.
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