The architectural lines and intricate, almost origami-like finishes for which the Australian designer is known remain for autumn winter 2014, but perhaps Lee's time as an International Woolmark Prize nominee in 2012 influenced something of a departure in the season's aesthetic. Looking heavily towards knitwear, he explores texture more than ever before.
"There's definitely a change in tone."
"In this collection more than any other, it's really been about texture and we've used a lot of knitwear and different types of yarns that have almost fluffy textures but are quite silky on the skin," Lee says. "So it's been really an experimentation with playing with different textures."
Taking his inspiration from his home country, Lee incorporated both cues from nature and from menswear.
"[I] was looking at native Australiana elements, flora and fauna. Looking at some ways to work with skin, so crocodile and snake," he says. "The tailoring for the collection was influenced by quite heavy men's outerwear, there's a chalk striped wool that we used throughout the opening section of the collection."
Compared his earlier collections, Lee substitutes much of the stark futurism with a chic minimalism, serving up garments for a sharply sophisticated urban woman.
"[It] feels just a bit more covered, a bit more layered and far more tailored than any of the spring summer collections that I presented previously," Lee says.