“For Autumn/Winter15 we wanted to embrace quite a maximal look, so we weren’t holding back on the volumes and fabrications and techniques we were using within the garments,” says Scottish-born London-based fashion designer Holly Fulton of her AW15 womenswear collection presented at London fashion Week.
“We wanted to embody a sense of contemporary luxury and glamour.”
Fulton’s use of premium, noble fibres such as Merino wool allowed her to realise this sense of luxury, played out by naughty party girls who were a contradiction of tough and girly, decadent and demure.
Mixing wool fabrics with sheer fabrics, Fulton’s muse was the kind of girl who stumbles out of a nightclub and then puts a wool coat on over a tiny little dress to protect her from the elements. Each muse takes the collection from the pre-war decadence of London’s devilish nightclub The Cave of the Golden Calf all the way to the ’90s hedonism of The Haçienda.
Working closely with Woolmark licensee Holland & Sherry, Fulton sourced Merino wool fabrics from the mill, trapping Sophie Hallette lace between Latex and then bonding it to the wool fabrics.
“It was exciting for us to work so closely with a partner of the fabrications front for the first time,” Fulton said of working with Holland & Sherry as a result of collaborating with The Woolmark Company.
Working with a varied colour palette, Holly Fulton’s AW15 collection starts with pastel, camel, classic hues and then ramps it up halfway moving into blacks, reds and colours with a possible racier feel.
Three-quarter length cashmere and printed wool/silk coats are finished with bejewelled collars and cuffs, shrugged over lingerie-cut slip dresses and camisoles. Tableaux printed hand-pleated skirts, party dresses adorned with delicate crystal spaghetti straps and fully crystalized multi-stone shifts evoke the mettle of Joan Collins in The Bitch and the lively allure of Naomi and Kate stepping out in chainmail mini dresses at the start of millennium.
"I love the feel of Merino wool, the soft handle you get with that; it embodies that luxury I was looking for, so we use that for intarsias and embellished necklines as well.
“We featured quite a few knit pieces within the collection, using them as a staple, classic if you like."