Jonathan Saunders AW 14/15

Fashion Details: London Fashion Week - Women's

Runway

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It seems Jonathan Saunders is in something of a nostalgic mood this season, looking to craft construction of the past for a look that is very now.

 

CRAFT WORK

The retro analogue televisions and speakers that acted as a backdrop to Jonathan Saunders' London Fashion Week show set the scene for the Scottish designer's throwback spirit. Not that he was content with simply revisiting the past - no, Saunders wanted to reinvent it.

"It is tactile, warm and easy to wear, but it's quite technical: couture wool."
Jonathon Saunders

"The inspiration for me this season was patchwork," he says of the collection. "Piecing all those pieces together; how can you do that in a modern, interesting way?"

The impetus for this creative direction came from looking at the offcuts of material leftover from creating his menswear collection. "Menswear comes first," Saunders admits. "It's always a starting point and it gets me very inspired."

Playing with those scraps of fabric and experimenting with ways to bond them together again encouraged Saunders to explore fresh new ways to work with textiles, in particular to develop new effects through the use of wool.

"The exciting thing about this technique I've been working with this season using wool... is actually, instead of being laser cut, it's cut with ultrasound," he reveals. "It is an amazing new technique and basically, then, the tailoring is bonded to felt and the whole coat is bonded together."

These fabrics form the backbone of a collection that mixed influences with wild abandon and wrapped it all up in outerwear so oversized that it bordered on caricature: huge Harrington style jackets sat alongside exaggerated wool knits and coats embellished with crafty, patchwork details.

Bringing his menswear expertise to bear, Saunders crafted key pieces with a man-style tailoring aesthetic, in particular the bonded felt outerwear and boyfriend trousers, both constructed from wool.

"It's basically a couture fabric: couture Merino," Saunders says. "There's so much work in it but... where something could look not very modern and quite old fashioned, by having tailoring inserted in pieces, it looks more casual in a way, more wearable and more believable."

 

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