Jonathan Saunders SS14

Runway Report: London Collections Men

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From colour to print to fabrication, experimentation and innovation was the order of the day for the designer's menswear collection.

 

FORMING A BOND

Once you realise that Jonathon Saunders trained as a print designer - days after graduating from London's prestigious Central Saint Martin's design college he was commissioned to create prints for the late, great Alexander McQueen - the vibrant colour and patterns that infuse his spring 2014 collection make perfect sense.

"The collection is inspired by that kind of traditional iconography of a business man so wool is a really important part of the collection."
Jonathan Saunders

Clever degradé effects use graduated colour to create dimension to suiting; add pin point dots and it becomes an optical illusion that manages to twist perceptions of shape and proportion.

Moving beyond his realm of expertise in the print world, Saunders' experimentation this season extended to fabrication, with the introduction of Cool Wool to his work.

Taking the lightweight Merino wool textile, Saunders sought to apply contemporary fabric treatments in an attempt to update time honoured menswear tailoring.

"It's a technique which involves laser cutting wool and bonding it onto itself so it creates a denser fabric," Saunders says of his approach.

The technological approach to working with the textile achieved the Scottish-born designer's objective to bring a new dimension to classic cuts.

"It makes it young and cool and a fresh interpretation of something that could be translated as something quite traditional," he says.

 

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