Narciso Rodriguez AW14/15

Fashion Details: New York Fashion Week


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From bright cocoon coats to sleek shift dresses, wool forms the backbone of Narciso Rodriguez's deceptively simple collection.



In bringing his vision for the autumn winter season to the runways of New York Fashion Week, Narciso Rodriguez affirmed his status as the kind of designer who makes the complex look simple, paying close attention and stitching elegance into every seam.

"I always say that wool is the core of each season, whether it's spring or fall."
Narciso Rodriguez

Nowhere was this more evident in the apparent ease of his silhouettes which were subtly enhanced through the use of colour blocking. Contrasting shades on the inside of pieces played their role perfectly, an open lapel on a coat creating an effect that worked perfectly with the shift dress layered beneath it.

And drilling down even further, Rodriguez worked wool to create further nuances in the collection through his use of fabrication.

"As a team we tried to take different ideas, make them in very densely constructed woollens," Rodriguez explains. "Double constructed woollens for coatings or taking those same shapes and making them in very sheer and light crepe woollens... We took different lightweight wools and bonded them together and bonded them to other things to create denser but lightweight wools."

Working with the idea of using wool to be both sculptural and fluid, Rodriguez says tailoring was key to the collection's aesthetic.

"The primary focus for the collection was tailoring," he says. "I wanted to create tailoring in wool, fine wool, sheer wool."

That tailored precision brought a classicism to the range which managed to be simultaneously timeless and, through his clever and attentive detailing, thoroughly modern.

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