Bringing a touch of the avant-garde to traditional tailoring is Thom Browne's stock in trade. The New York designer, who established his provocative aesthetic via his menswear collections, has chosen for his latest women's wear collection to offer an infusion of opulence.
"[Wool is] something I always use because it's something that’s so true to men’s tailoring and I do like to introduce that into women's."
"We're taking classic fabrics and making them more interesting by introducing metal threads, gold threads," Browne says. The designer's traditional grey felt and menswear influenced wools gained a gilded shine on the New York Fashion Week runway. "All my fabrics I develop myself so it is a big part of the collection," he says. "Some of them are just new takes on very classic fabrics."
In his typically subversive manner, Browne manages to take the glamour of gold and transform it into a dark, solemn show with apostolic overtones.
"My shows are never literally interpreted from anything but I watch a lot of Fellini films so there's a little bit of that," Browne admits. "And it's all very ecclesiastic so I wanted to put it in a church."
The baroque overtones and nods to religious excess are still built on the fundamentals of the Thom Browne brand, namely twisted elegance with roots firmly in the traditions on men's tailoring and the use of wool.
"Wool is really one of my staples," Brown says. "But all different types of wool. Some refined wools, but also some not so refined which I like to make look as luxurious as possible."